I gather it's a straight-guy fantasy here in Japan to find out what it's like to ride on one of the women-only commuter train cars, which were instituted a few years ago by rail companies looking to offer women protection from, among other things, rush-hour groping.
Well, as of today, I can tell you, though the experience was wasted on me, naturally.
I got on the train around 6:30 on the way to getting a haircut. I suppose that, when I used to live along the Toyoko Line, I knew that trains heading out of Shibuya had the women-only car in effect during evening rush hour, but I didn't think much about it. My commute was during off-hours, when anyone can ride any car. The floral-patterned pink decals designating which car is women-only are still there, but the rule isn't in effect during the afternoon. I wasn't used to having to pay attention, and I guess I just always figured that any man who inadvertently stepped onto the wrong car would be promptly informed by one of its occupants that he belonged elsewhere. Or maybe that the nearest station attendant would chase you off. (Yes, Japanese women are brought up not to make a fuss, and yes, I'm a foreigner; still, it's not uncommon to have someone crisply inform you when you're committing a serious transgression in a public space--say, smoking where it's not allowed, or what have you.)
Instead, I rode through five express stops before I figured it out. I'd had a vague sense that there were several women around me wearing quite a bit of perfume, maybe. I didn't notice anyone looking askance at me. No furtive whispering. (You get that as a foreigner here, even if you're not doing anything to violate decorum.) I was mostly lost in my iPod anyway. Perhaps the passengers around me heard
Miranda Lambert leaking through my headphones and figured I was a fan of sassy women and unlikely to cause problems?
Anyway, it's funny how the mind works. The moment I realized my mistake and began plotting to maneuver to the door at the next stop, the woman scent, which I hadn't really noticed until then, became overpowering. I had a stronger-than-usual urge to bury my face in Hugh Jackman's gym shorts. There didn't seem to be any harm done, but I toyed with the idea of apologizing to the woman in front of me. (Her rear was pushed against my fists, which were innocently clenched around my little Hermès bag. I doubt the pressure felt anything like a touch of the more untoward kind; still, I assume her whole intention in getting on that car had been to avoid worrying about what the guy next to her was doing with his hands.)
Anyway, sorry, ladies. Trust me, it was no better for me than it was for you, and I'll be paying more attention in the future.